Apex Chassis Heavy Duty 2.5 Ton Tie Rod & Drag Link Assembly in Polished Aluminum Fits: 19-22 Jeep Gladiator JT 18-22 Jeep Wrangler JL/JLU Rubicon Mohave Sahara Sport. Note: This NO-FLIP kit fits a Dana 44 axle with a lift of 4.5 inches or less

Apex Chassis Heavy Duty 2.5 Ton Tie Rod & Drag Link Assembly in Polished Aluminum Fits: 19-22 Jeep Gladiator JT 18-22 Jeep Wrangler JL/JLU Rubicon Mohave Sahara Sport. Note: This NO-FLIP kit fits a Dana 44 axle with a lift of 4.5 inches or lessThis is a complete replacement steering kit for your 2018 2021 Jeep Wrangler JL or 2019 2021 Gladiator JT. It includes the tie rod (black anodized aluminum) which is also the adjusting sleeve, and left and right forged steel tie rod ends, the drag link (black anodized aluminum) which is also the adjusting sleeve, and left and right forged steel drag link ends. Plus 4 Ninja Lock Washers. All Flip Kits include the taper sleeve!! It does not include the

This is a complete replacement steering kit for your 2018-2021 Jeep Wrangler JL or 2019-2021 Gladiator JT. It includes the tie rod (black anodized aluminum) which is also the adjusting sleeve, and left and right forged steel tie rod ends, the drag link (black anodized aluminum) which is also the adjusting sleeve, and left and right forged steel drag link ends. Plus 4 Ninja Lock Washers.

All Flip Kits include the taper sleeve!!

It does not include the steering stabilizer bracket which you will need to choose in the options above based on the steering stabilizer you use.

Note: This steering system fits stock Dana 44 No Flip axles. If your jeep has been upgraded to a Dana 60 axle, we have modifications that can work with that as well.

• Rod Ends - Phosphate Finish: Extremely durable. Double coated. Rugged look.
• Black Anodized Finish: Understated beauty, long lasting finish.
• Grade 8 - Class 10.9 Hardware: Superior tensile strength.
• Castle Nut: Industry standard where high vibration loads occur.
• SAE 1045 Solid Steel Forged Housing: This is unequivocally the best carbon alloy steel for this application.
• CNC Machined Housing: Make our parts and bearings dimensionally perfect, eliminating any die wear issues.
• Rugged Metal to Metal Bearing.
• SAE 4140 hot forged Chromoly Ball Studs: For strongest possible metallurgy.
• Induction Heat Treated Ball Studs: Provides a very precise heat treatment to the exact depth and location we want it.
• Rolled Threads: Are made by pressing the shape of the threads into the ball stud instead of cutting. This strengthens the threads instead of weakening them and allows for easy movement of hardware. This ain't no Ikea furniture!
• Step Threads: Allow for very easy movement of hardware on install and superior holding when torqued. (installer choice).
• CR Rubber Boots: The most durable material for undercar applications. Resistant to deterioration from road level ozone, oil/gas/engine fluids and extreme heat or cold
• Accordion Boot: ideal for high-articulation components, more flexibility means longer life.
• Pre-threaded Zerk Housing: If you have ever installed a MOOG Ball Joint without a pre-threaded zerk fitting you will understand what a simple but great feature this is. Another installer fav.
• Greaseable: Because it should be.
• Pre-Greased: Just in case you forget, we have you covered.
• Gull Winged Grease Grooves: Allows for improved lubrication disbursement around the ball stud.
• Zerk Fittings: Included for every application.
• LH Tie Rod End and RH Drag Link End - Flopper Stoppers Built In: Unlike the poly hockey pucks that most brands use, our heavy duty InchFlopper Stoppers Inch are built into the tie rod end and drag link end bearings, giving you an industry leading 27 degrees of stud swing left and right and only 2 degrees of stud swing forward and aft, keeping your tie rod and drag link from rotating and flopping. The competitor hockey puck style systems also call for the removal of the tie rod end boot, which is there to keep the dirt out and the grease in.
• Ninja Washers (tm): An APEX exclusive is our Ninja Washer which is a unique method of securing the lock nut to the tube, erasing the need for lightly built adjusting tubes with ugly pinch clamps. And who doesn't want a ninja on their front end!
• Minimum Engagement Mark on Drag Link End Threads: If this mark in the thread of the drag link is showing it means you are beyond the safe engagement of threads into the adjusting sleeve. You may be lifted too high and need to switch to a flip kit or you may need to equal out the adjusting sleeve between the two ends.