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Description
Osaka Hockey Shoe IDO MK 1 STANDARDThe Osaka IDO MK1 in Iconic White is the ideal shoe for hockey, padel or training. Take your pick based on historical footwear experiences. The mantra behind the Ido has always been: The Athlete comes first. We wanted to fill the disconnect between what was perceived to be a performance shoe and what actually IS a performance shoe. Top minds from the athletic footwear industry have developed this shoe over the past 2 years to give you an edge over the
The Osaka IDO MK1 in Iconic White is the ideal shoe for hockey, padel or training. Take your pick based on historical footwear experiences.
The mantra behind the Ido has always been: “The Athlete comes first.” We wanted to fill the disconnect between what was perceived to be a performance shoe and what actually IS a performance shoe. Top minds from the athletic footwear industry have developed this shoe over the past 2 years to give you an edge over the competition and elevate your game to new heights.
- fast drying mesh upper
- strategical cleat composition
- heel deceleration
- ankle lock lacing option
Engineered by Athletes, Driven by Experts.At Osaka, We push ourselves every day to create the best products that Hockey has
seen. We have an incredible product range with a simple goal to service the
Athlete. The one element that we were missing to complete the range was
Sports footwear. The IDO MK1 is the start of a new era for sports footwear,
it’s all for the Athlete, the Athlete comes first.
Decoupling
MOVE FREELY WITHOUT JEOPARDISING STABILITY
The Ido comes alive with midsole decoupling that changes the behaviour
of the shoe without jeopardising stability. The foot in its natural form is a completely
decoupled structure, it has 26 bones and has over 100 ligaments which all move
independently of each other.
So, what decoupling does is when you apply a particular force to the bottom of
the shoe it separates so that you have more shoe in contact with the ground
when you need it, where you need it. Decoupling on the IDO is nonspecific so it
suits anyone and everyone, no matter your foot shape or function.
The “O” spot
BALANCED AND CENTRED
We’ve highlighted a part of the shoe called the “O” spot that is right
underneath the cuboid bone. This gives the spot the ability to bend so it does not
influence the rest of the foot and move independently. It represents a balance
center point for agility, acceleration and deceleration movements that the athletehas to adapt to on the field.
Stack Height
OPTIMUM POSITIONING FOR AGILITY
The closer to the ground, the less the penalty. Traditionally the height in the back is usually 30 mm and the front 20 mm which gives a stack height of 10 mm.
The IDO MK1 height in the back is 26 mm and the front 18 mm with the result of an 8mm drop which brings the player closer to the field.Engineered mesh upper
ATHLETE AND SHOE BECOME ONE
An engineered mesh upper is the lightest option available without jeopardizing
durability or strength for foot lockdown. This upper is noticeably light and
breathable and has been designed not to hold water. The IDO MK1 engineered
mesh upper offers confidence to the athlete when they push the limits.
Sling system
ENGINEERED TO GO
PLAY WITH CONFIDENCE
To protect the toes from impact, a toe box shell protection has been applied
in the front. We've tested the toe box to obtain the optimum amount of
protection without carrying unnecessary weight.
MULTI DIRECTIONAL CLEATS
The grip characteristics of the IDO MK1 are unique to sports.
Running backwards, sideways, pivoting and fast acceleration forward - there is
no direction that the cleats don’t accommodate for. A full contact outsole
that offers full confidence in fast changing directional movements and
allowing rapid braking.
Anatomical Last.
LAST COMES FIRST
The starting point of every shoe design is the last. The last determines the comfort
and performance characteristics of a shoe. Traditional manufacturing methods
prevented last innovation to move towards contouring the plantar surface,
UNTIL NOW!
The Ido is unique because it is built around what’s called an anatomical last,
in fact, it’s the first field hockey shoe to ever be built using an anatomical last.
Traditional lasts are flat on the bottom whereas an anatomical last is completely
contoured to the shape of a foot. When that’s translated to the shoe, it means you
sit in the shoe with full surface contact rather than on top of the flat midsole.
Like a Glove
A major factor determining the on pitch performance of a shoe is how well the
shoe fits the foot and the perfect fit translates to player comfort and
confidence. The Ido anatomical last has been meticulously sculpted in fine detail
to cater for different foot volumes, standard fit and a slim fit. Take your pick
based on historical footwear experiences however the general rule of thumb is girls
will use the slim and guys will use the standard sizing.The sling hugs the foot to the midsole of the shoe. We have kept the sling system
as close to the foot as possible to minimize the lateral movement of the
foot in the shoe. There is a sling system on the outside of the shoe as well as on the
inside to prevent the foot from sliding off the shoe giving it a snug feeling and
tighter lockdown. The slings on the inside are constructed using Spenco Neoprene,
which is shock attenuating, protecting the most vulnerable parts of the foot while performing.
Shipping Notes
- Free Standard Shipping on $100+ Orders to the USA.
- Except Preorder products are shipped in 48 hours.
- Delivery to the USA:
- Standard Shipping : 3-10 business days
- If time is of the essence, please consider selecting expedited delivery for faster service.
Exchange/Return Notes
- We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
- Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
- To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
- Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
4.6 ★★★★★
Based on 27 reviews
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Product Reviews
★★★★★ 5
Easy to apply.
Size: 4 Oz
Product did a great job renewing my plastic house shutters. It brought back the deep rich color and made them look better the new.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 27, 2026
★★★★★ 5
Great Stuff
Size: 120 ML
Product is good, Easy to spread for the most part. The only complaint I would give it is that the applicators do not hole up after several applications, I would suggest using a microfiber cloth to apply.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 1, 2026
★★★★★ 5
Restored My Trim Instantly
Size: 120 ML
I used this plastic restorer on the faded trim around my SUV, and the difference was immediate. The dull gray plastic turned back to a rich black color within minutes. It spreads evenly and doesn’t leave greasy streaks behind. After a few weeks and several rainy days, the finish still looks great. My car honestly looks years newer now.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 11, 2026
★★★★★ 5
Great result, exceptional value, and easy, forgiving application.
Size: TRIM COAT KIT
I am thoroughly pleased with the results of this product, and the application was easier than I expected. Outstanding stuff. I am writing a longer review in case it helps people who are unsure about a "once and done" product that calls itself permanent. It's not hard to apply. It is forgiving and there's time to even it out. But here are some things to anticipate.
My use case:
I used Cerakote to restore the plastic trim on a used 2014 black Dodge Challenger that had been repainted but the plastic trim was original and it had been kept outside by the prior owner, so the contrast between the new paint and faded trim was noticeable. The trim was originally a deep, dark gray (it is never as black as the paint). It had faded to a medium-gray in many places: running boards on the side beneath the door, below the read bumper (which were also somewhat worn from debris), around the tail lights, and the plastic piece beneath the windshield wipers between the windshield and the hood. These were all looking weathered. The trim was very oxidized in some places, chalky grey near the hood and around the back bumper. The plastic around the tail lights also had light streaks in it from where water drains down from the trunk.
What else I tried before I tried Cerakote:
I got middling results from Mother's Back to Black. It looked somewhat better for a week or two, and then it went back to looking as before. Not impressed.
I got a tip online to try rubbing the plastic trim with a melamine magic eraser, so I did that next, and this made a significant difference. Melamine is abrasive, so be careful if you do this on your trim. I went gently, up-and-down, side-to-side and in small circles, by hand, with gentle pressure like one would with a polishing compound. By removing the oxidation, the plastic was a few shades darker in the worst spots and the streaking on the rear tail light piece was gone. The rough spots on the trim at the bottom of the car and around the wheels looked somewhat better. But it certainly did not "like new."
Cerakote experience:
I decided to give Cerakote a try based on the video and good reviews. Bam! Back to factory-like deep dark gray. I wish I had taken pictures. It's incredible. Fully satisfied!
I had already washed the trim with Dawn dish soap. I started with the trim bone dry. You are warned everywhere that water droplets will ruin the result, so don't expect to do this process right after you wash the car unless you like to live dangerously and have compressed air to spray cracks and crevices.
I was worried that application would be streaky if I didn't do it right. Not so. It is forgiving. Here's what I learned.
1) The first 20% of what you'll get out of the packet goes on heavy with the lightest touch. One packet goes a long way. The next 60% is the "normal" application. This goes on the easiest. You can really milk the last drop out of each towelette, but I didn't because the last 20% of what you can get out of it by rubbing it really hard comes out very light and is not worth the uneven application unless you have some random area you don't care much about and want to use the remainder for that. I only used 5 packets to do the whole car.
When you start a new packet, the beginning is where you might want to go back later and even it out once the application gets more normal. Or better, start a new packet on a big section to spread it around well and then move to smaller trim when the towelette is less fresh.
2) You've got time to work with it and make corrections. It stayed liquid like water for at least 20 minutes in my conditions: about 80 degrees, not very humid, indirect sunlight on an 80 degree car. Don't apply in direct sun or on a hot car. The product then gets sticky as it cures, but you can still work with it during the sticky time, rubbing it in and spreading it evenly with the towelette. I did not use a microfiber to "knock down" heavy spots. I just came back around with the towelette. I think a dry microfiber might pull off too much product. When it is half-cured, it is sticky and you can buff it with the towelette at this stage to further flatten and even things out. Work in sections, one piece of trim at a time.
3) Overlaps won't show as long as you rub it all in thoroughly. I tried the overlapping parallel passes method that they recommend, and this works pretty well. I was worried that I might get a "double heavy" streak where the passes overlap but this not so unless the towelette is fresh, but this is fixable. You can do a pretty natural, casual back-and-forth motion for the most part and it comes out fine. This is NOT a super-finicky product. I made a second or third back-and-forth pass in a few areas, and used circular motion in some places where the trim was textured or a little rough from wear, and it all looked even in the end. Just rub it down into the plastic and even out the sheen while it is uncured and it's good.
4) It cures like you see it when it's still wet. It doesn't lighten up very much as it cures. It just looks a little less wet. So get it right by eye when it is wet and that's pretty much what you will still have in an hour when it is cured.
5) Don't miss a spot! You'll see it for sure if you do because the different is so dramatic. And a "second coat" is not easy or recommended. This is the only once-and-done part that you want to get right, and you have plenty of cure time to be thorough.
6) Use the folded corner of the towelette to get into small corners and edges, like where the trim meets the paint or has an inside corner or some little nook. A fresh towelette is great for getting into small areas because a feather touch applies plenty of product when the towelette is fresh.
The trim now looks amazing and I am entirely satisfied. I will use Cerakote on my other vehicles. The only minor con is a strong ammonia smell when you are up close to it while it is wet. No smell once it is cured. I would definitely wear the recommended gloves while applying. As others say, you will probably drop that towelette on the ground. It's slippery when wet. Keep it folded in quarters as it comes for ease of application. Turn to a new quarter once a side gets dirty or dry and fold it inside out for four more quarters to use.
Bonus, but off-label -- at your own risk:
The product is not intended for the soft rubber around the windows, but I tried it there too, and it looks amazing. All I did was wash the rubber with dish soap like the trim, and I rubbed it a few times with a wet microfiber cloth to get the superficial layer of oxidized rubber off. Then I applied Cerakote. It looks great.
The rubber used to be blotchy and faded. The microfiber evened this out a little. I would not use melamine on the rubber -- this made it look worse in a test section. The Cerakote made it look great: jet black, much shiner, and much more even looking. Not quite "brand new" but far better than I thought possible. I thought I might need to replace the rubber. Now it's looking great next to the jet-black new paint. This afterthought use alone was worth the money.
Can you apply a second coat the next day?
They don't say you can, and I don't recommend it. This is meant to be one-shot, which is why you should check to make sure you don't miss any spots.
I had two areas where I tried a second coat the next day. The first was on the plastic trim between the windshield and the hood. I didn't rub this trim much with melamine beforehand so there was a lighter area (light grey originally, the worst spot) that didn't get as black as the other sections so I did it again, which helped a little, but not much. I didn't wash this area with soap beforehand because I wasn't intending to fix it until I got going. Once you put things back to black you will start noticing other faded things more.
Likewise, I did a second coat on the very top of the soft rubber at the bottom of the windows (the part which faces upward and thus gets the most sun), it wasn't as shiny as the other parts, so I went over that section gently again the next day with a fresh towelette.
As soon as I did it, I thought it was a mistake. This didn't go well initially because the cured coating is very hydrophobic so the new, wet, Cerakote of the second coat goes on smooth initially and then "puddles up" into little droplets a few minutes later. It doesn't want to stick to the first coat. I thought I had messed it up, but I let it cure a little until the sticky phase, and spread it out again with the towelette. It stayed that time but gathered back a little into some streaks. I spread it once more a few minutes later and it looked good. It stayed even. It looks just fine a few days later, so I think it cured OK.
I hope this product last for months as advertised. Even if it doesn't I would totally do it again because the results are superior, I still have half my towelettes left, and the product is not expensive. 10/10 would do again and will recommend to everyone.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 25, 2025
★★★★★ 5
Easy to use, amazing results
Size: TRIM COAT KIT
This is an awesome product that is easy to use and has amazing results. My plastic trim never looked so good.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2026